Roca Azul Mexican Restaurant in Bangor, Maine

Roca Azul serves real Mexican food in Bangor, not the Americanized kind. The kitchen turns out chile colorado so tender and flavorful it stops conversation, ceviche people return for multiple times, and quesadillas big enough to split. Diners who've lived in the Southwest and California vouch for the authenticity.

• Chile colorado rivals California Mexican restaurants.
• Ceviche compelling enough to order multiple visits.
• Half-pitcher margaritas stay cold, portions feed two.
• Rice and beans actually taste like something.

The pork chile colorado is the headliner, tender and spiced properly. The shrimp quesadilla is oversized and comes with warm queso for dipping that makes it impossible to leave half behind. Ceviche keeps regulars coming back. The enchilada poblana and jalapeno appetizer are solid bets. Skip the sopapillas unless you want fried sweetened tortillas instead of the fluffy hollow kind. Order the half-pitcher margarita if you're staying for drinks.

Bright, clean interior with no trace of the Ground Round it used to be. Noise stays moderate even when it fills up.

Expect warm giant tortilla chips and salsa with actual kick when you sit down. The kitchen doesn't rush, but meals arrive hot and fresh. Portions run large, so ceviche or a quesadilla can easily be a solo dinner. Spice levels lean toward real Mexican heat, which some New England palates aren't used to, but that's the point.

Guests who've eaten Mexican in Arizona, Southern California, and San Diego compare it favorably to what they know. One recent visitor said the food came out hot and fresh and made him crave it days later. Even a less enthusiastic diner acknowledged the chips, salsa, and service hit the mark.