Empire Chinese Kitchen in Portland, Maine

Empire Chinese Kitchen has earned its reputation as Portland's go-to for serious Cantonese food. The menu splits between small shareable plates and larger dishes, and the kitchen moves fast even when the place is packed. No reservations, so expect a wait on weekends. The pork dishes are the standout, but the green beans, dumplings, and noodles are why people keep coming back.

• Pork dishes rank among the best in Maine.
• Garlic green beans with burnt, smoky char.
• Food arrives in 5 minutes, even when slammed.
• Tender chicken skewers and dumplings done right.

Start with the garlic green beans for the burnt bits and smoke. The roast pork and spicy pork belly buns are the pork you've been craving. Shanghai soup dumplings and shiitake mushroom chive dumplings handle the dumpling course, though the soup dumplings are occasionally light on broth. Don't skip the duck lo mein (ask for chili oil), and if you want something less traditional, the bacon fried rice with pineapple works.

Busy and lively, especially weekends and summer. The space is tight but not cramped, with enough tables that you won't feel stacked on top of your neighbors.

The menu leans heavily on family style ordering. Pork belly buns, roast pork, garlic green beans with charred edges, Shanghai soup dumplings, duck lo mein, shu mai, each dish arrives properly cooked and seasoned. Ask for chili oil on the side if you want heat. The mushroom chive dumplings and bacon fried rice (with pineapple if you ask) are worth the trip alone.