J’s Oyster

J's Oyster sits on a working pier in Portland, slung low and unvarnished, where the kitchen turns out steamed clams and crab cakes and oysters by the dozen. Locals and tourists both show up, and nobody comes for the decor. Phone service is spotty, but that's part of the charm. What matters is fresh catch and prices that don't gouge.

• Oyster plate (13 for $30) is a steal versus elsewhere.
• Steamed clams fresh and tender, worth the pier trek.
• Shrimp ceviche and crab cakes hit hard.
• Waterfront patio right on the water.

Start with oysters, a full dozen if you're hungry. The steamed clams are what J's built its name on, soft and briny. Crab cakes are plump and crunchy. Lobster roll is cold and buttery. The haddock sandwich is solid if you're not in a shellfish mood. Try a local beer.

Right on the pier, so salt air and water noise. Casual, a little worn. Patio seating overlooks the waterfront. You won't mistake it for fine dining, and that's the point.

The kitchen keeps it simple. Steamed clams, oysters, crab cakes, lobster rolls, haddock sandwiches. One server will show you how to eat soft-shelled clams if you've never had them. You'll sit in the same room where Anthony Bourdain used to eat. Expect noise, expect to linger, expect to come back.

Guests rave about the freshness and the oyster deal. One recent visitor called the crab cakes "tender and plump" and praised the staff for teaching them how to eat soft-shelled clams. A few dinners note the menu is narrow, focused on clams and shellfish, so if you don't eat those, pick fish. One visitor mentioned the clams were sandy, so results vary.