A bird flies over a rocky coastline with waves.
A bird flies over a rocky coastline with waves.Photo by Photo by Morgan Marinoni on Unsplash

Winter Harbor

Winter Harbor sits on the Schoodic Peninsula, the mainland piece of Acadia National Park . It is the same pink granite meeting the same open Atlantic as the famous side of the park, and it receives roughly a tenth of the visitors. If the Park Loop Road in August sounds…

The village itself is small — a harbour, a handful of businesses, and a summer colony on Grindstone Neck that has been coming since the 1890s.

Schoodic Point

The point is the reason to come. Waves break against broad granite ledges with nothing between you and the ocean, and on a day with any swell running it is more dramatic than Thunder Hole and far less crowded. A one-way loop road runs out to it through spruce, with pull-offs the whole way.

Schoodic Woods Campground (4.8 across 475 reviews) is the park's newest and quietest, opened in 2015, with bike paths running from the sites to the point. The Schoodic Institute occupies the former Navy base — a chateau-style building that housed a radio-intercept station from the 1930s until 2002.

Things to do

Drive or cycle the loop. Climb Schoodic Head for the view back to Cadillac Mountain across Frenchman Bay. Musquito Harbor Brewing (4.8 from 227 reviews) is the local brewery, and Grindstone Neck Golf Course (4.1 from 49 reviews) is a nine-hole course from 1895 with ocean on three sides.

Getting here and when to go

By road it is about an hour from Bar Harbor — down Route 3, along Route 1 through Ellsworth, then Route 186. In summer a passenger ferry crosses from Bar Harbor in about an hour, which is the better arrival if you are happy on foot or a bike; note it carries no cars.

Late June to early October. There is no supermarket and dining is limited to a handful of places, so plan around that rather than assuming you will find something.

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