a group of birds sitting on top of a wooden dock
a group of birds sitting on top of a wooden dockPhoto by Terry Granger

Northeast Harbor

Northeast Harbor is the restrained half of Mount Desert Island. Where Bar Harbor has crowds, cruise passengers and t-shirt shops, Northeast Harbor has a deep marina full of well-kept boats, a two-block main street, and a summer community that has been coming here for generations…

For a visitor, the appeal is straightforward: you get the same access to Acadia National Park without the congestion, and the western side of the island is on your doorstep.

What Northeast Harbor is known for

Gardens and boats. Two of the finest gardens in Maine sit just outside the village: the Asticou Azalea Garden, laid out in a Japanese-influenced style and best in late spring when the azaleas break, and Thuya Garden, reached by a steep path up from the harbor with a formal English-style border at the top. Both are quiet, deliberate places.

The harbor itself is the other draw. It is one of the most protected anchorages on the island, and the town dock is where the mailboat leaves for the Cranberry Isles, a short crossing to a pair of small year-round island communities that see a fraction of the island's visitors.

Things to do

Visit both gardens; they are close together and take a morning. Take the Cranberry Isles mailboat. Walk the Asticou and Jordan Pond Path, which climbs from near the gardens toward the pond and connects into the park's carriage road network.

The village has a small grocery, a bookshop and a handful of places to eat, and that is genuinely the extent of it. For a wider choice, Southwest Harbor is fifteen minutes around the sound.

Getting here and when to go

Northeast Harbor is about twenty minutes from Bar Harbor on Route 3 and Route 198. The free Island Explorer shuttle serves it in season, which is the easiest way to reach the park without parking.

The season is compressed: late June through early October, with the gardens at their best in June. Outside that window the village closes down almost entirely.

Common questions

Is Northeast Harbor part of Bar Harbor?

No. Northeast Harbor is a village in the town of Mount Desert, on the southern end of the same island, and it is a separate community with its own harbor and main street. Bar Harbor is the larger, busier town on the northeast shore. The drive between them takes well under half an hour.

Can you take a boat to the Cranberry Isles from Northeast Harbor?

Yes. The town marina is the main departure point for the Cranberry Isles, with passenger boats running out to Great Cranberry and to Islesford on Little Cranberry. The crossing is short, and most people go over for a few hours to walk, eat and look back at the mountains before returning on a later boat.

Is Asticou Azalea Garden worth a visit?

Yes, especially in late spring when the azaleas are in bloom. The garden is laid out in Japanese style around a pond, with raked gravel and stone paths, and it takes maybe half an hour to walk. Thuya Garden, reached by a steep path up from the shore road, makes a natural pairing on the same morning.

Is Northeast Harbor a good base for Acadia National Park?

It is, if you want quiet. The carriage roads, Jordan Pond and the trails up Sargent and Penobscot are all close, and the seasonal Island Explorer bus links the village to park stops without a car. The tradeoff is choice: far fewer restaurants, shops and rooms than Bar Harbor, and most close outside summer.

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