In Good Company in Rockland, Maine

In Good Company sits in a bright, open loftlike room in downtown Rockland and cooks contemporary American food with real care. The wine list is thoughtful and sizable. You'll find regulars at the bar and couples tucking into the booths, all of them there for the kind of cooking that doesn't feel fussy but clearly is. Reservations are a good idea.

• Sea bass and coho salmon both sing, each with distinct flavor.
• Beef tenderloin with butter blue cheese topping is precisely executed.
• Wine list is substantial and knowledgeable staff can guide you.
• Locally sourced proteins and hand-finished details throughout the menu.

Start with the radish appetizer, which arrives as whole and cut radishes with fresh greens still attached. The farmer salad is worth ordering if goat cheese is offered as an add-on. Salmon comes with a crisp exterior over summer squash puree. Beef tenderloin paired with butter blue cheese is perfectly cooked. Finish with chocolate cake, raspberry sauce, and whipped cream. A maple old fashioned pairs nicely with the meal.

Bright loftlike space with good natural light and room to breathe. Conversation-friendly noise level, comfortable seating.

Guests rave about the care in every dish and the quality of local sourcing. One recent visitor called the salmon perfectly cooked and praised the hand-whipped cream. Service varies, though most diners found staff warm and attentive.