North Beacon Oyster in Rockland, Maine

North Beacon Oyster is a small, unpretentious oyster bar in downtown Rockland where Eric and Amanda run a tight kitchen and a warm crew. The menu swings between raw oysters with house-made mignonettes, fried plates like fish and chips and Brussels sprouts, and a few heartier mains. It's the kind of place where the bartender knows the cocktails and regulars show up for lunch year-round.

• Damariscotta and Pemiquid oysters with house-made mignonettes
• Steak frites with Parmesan-covered fries
• Knowledgeable bartenders who mix classic cocktails

Start with oysters (Damariscotta or Pemiquid) and a house mignonette, maybe the cucumber jalapeño. Get the steak frites, which lean hard on good butter and Parmesan. Crispy Brussels sprouts and shrimp cocktail are reliable sharers. If you want something more, the Caesar salad with calamari is solid, and burger sliders work if you're not in the mood for seafood.

Small, tight, and loud when it's busy. The bar is a focal point, and you'll hear neighboring tables. Winter is quieter and easier to navigate.

It's easy enough to get a table in winter, but summer weekends book up quick. First-time visitors often come curious about the oyster selection, then come back for the bar scene and the people who run it.

Most guests rave about the oysters, the bartenders' warmth and skill, and the sense that the kitchen cares. One recent visitor called the steak frites "the best parm covered fries ever." A regular visitor notes they make a point of stopping in for lunch whenever they're in the area.